Image taken from Style.com, definitely click for the full collection

Lust Never Sleeps. A fitting title for this, a sinister reflection of life’s sleazy underbelly. Trademark fetish elements; rubber, masks, padlock ‘n’ chain and re-appropriated workwear items were incorporated with classic Van Beirendonck devices of colour, print play and proportion.

The effect of pale pink rubber gloves (complete with realistic hands) worn in conjunction with masks that contrasted with the models skin and the playful nature of Van Beirendonck’s work creates an unsettling visual impact.

That said, the majority of looks have more real-world appeal than in previous collections. Neat fitting checkered suits and shirts with circular over-print are different enough without warranting an intervention.

]]> http://stylepotential.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/walter-van-beirendonck-aw1213/feed/ 0 stylepotential WALTER_V_BEIRENDONCK http://stylepotential.wordpress.com/2012/01/18/marni-aw1213/ http://stylepotential.wordpress.com/2012/01/18/marni-aw1213/#comments Wed, 18 Jan 2012 16:22:14 +0000 stylepotential http://stylepotential.wordpress.com/?p=716 ]]>

Images taken from Fucking Young, do click to see the full collection

A flawless autumn/winter collection from Marni showcasing the classic house style.

Clean and crisp edges on necklines and closures update traditional overcoats. Small details on trousers such as quilt-like denim, odd seam placements and pocket repetition make each piece uniquely interesting.

The use of fur on coats, gilets, cardigans and scarves is a glamourous touch, and aligns Marni with Ferragamo, Prada and Moncler (amongst others) who also showed fur this year.

The understated range of bags appeared bright and minimal as slimline colour-blocked totes, complete with furry fob, drew attention away from the clothes. Marni footwear often tows the line between classic and corrective but this season’s brogues will certainly stand the test of time.

Image taken from GQ Style, click for the full collection

At Milan Fashion Week, Neil Barrett once again showed off pared-back sporty looks. The base palette of black, navy and camel was highlighted by oxblood and burnished yellow.

The show featured athletic cuffs on trouser hems, exaggerated polo necks and sweatshirt layering, confirming sportswear as an acceptable addition to any man’s autumnal wardrobe.

Image taken from GQ style, click for full collection

The Costume National show put on a tough front as a Mod-ish template was rehashed with modern styling.

However, it was the shoes that made greatest impact. The ungainly shape, clumpy sole and metal toe-cap long associated with ageing Camden goths now looks refined without losing their gritty edge.

Image taken from GQ Style, click for the full collection

Amidst the luxe-sportswear that made up the majority of the Calvin Klein Collection shone the above print. Bearing a likeness to television noise, the coloured specks have a sensory quality, drawing your eye in from afar, willing you to touch it.

Images from GQ Style, click for the full collection

Making a sinister statement to kick off Milan Fashion Week, Raf Simons at Jil Sander showed the many applications of leather.

The usual precise tailoring became intensified, creating a natural armour-like second skin. In contrast, the outerwear pieces appeared lighter and looser as boxy, oversized shapes finished off the look.

Dense charcoal flecked woollen suiting added some softness to the show, but surprise came in the form of coloured jumpers with animal motifs, which SHOWstudio revealed to be a clever American Psycho reference.

Accessories, also leather, were limited to the american grocery-style bags seen above, in what could be next year’s answer to the chic PVC carrier seen in the women’s SS show.

This daypack has been a long-time favourite of mine, due to it’s unassuming features and absent decoration. It is built for purpose, made entirely from deer skin and uses naturally strong, woven horse hair on the straps. It’s the horse hair that really is the stand out detail and gives this bag a premium edge.

It’s a shame therefore, that Patrik Ervell doesn’t have a UK stockist but is available online.

Image from S2A

This three finger staple of the Surface to Air accessories range is almost perfect as an understated and minimal piece of jewellery. Its relatively dainty form softens the hard knuckleduster style, and it would lend itself well to being accompanied by rings of differing sizes. The only snag is that it’s made of polished aluminium and not silver, though at a retail price of $80 it’s hard to complain.

Image from highsnobeity, available at Dr Martens.

The Lex shoe has been revamped with a glossy, hyper-shiny coating that gives it a luxury edge over all other shoes in the range.

At first, the fact it was applied to this particular shoe over the 1461 was almost a catastrophe, but I now feel the dressier Lex lifts this treatment above and beyond the quirky shoe category. In other words, it stands up on its own two feet.

Shown above are, in my opinion, the nicest colourways from this seasons collaboration with UK brand, Gloverall. The Royal Blue and Camel inject a jolt of youthful energy into this classic outerwear staple. It also comes in Navy, Grey, Brown and a very lively Aqua.

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