a disquiet minimalism

modern menswear with minimalist leanings

Burberry Prorsum, Ikat shirt

Burberry Ikat print shirt available at Mr Porter

Burberry’s spring summer 12 show departed from the very london-centric look it pursued in recent seasons. Instead, sharp ikat’s (seen above) and colourful batik inspired prints appeared on shirting and trousers, while handicraft-style blocks adorned t shirts.

The fabric choices instantly create a yearning for a long tropical getaway, as 100% linen suiting and linen mix trousers complimented the worked-in raffia segments on coat collars, shirts and accessories.

I look forward to breaking from monochrome tradition this summer and going for maximum island-inspired impact. Prints, beware!

Adidas SLVR, SS12 video campaign

Video taken from Adidas SLVR

Adidas SLVR, the functional-fashion offshoot, have lanched their spring summer campaign. Shot by Willy Vanderperre, the video makes no secret of the collection’s roots in the minimal and highly technical fencing uniform.

In a sport where poise and form are key, the uniform lends itself well to being stylised in a fashion context with form-fitting blouson jackets, contrast belted ties and buckle detailing recurring throughout the collection.

Adam Kimmel SS12, Shirt

Adam Kimmel at thecorner

For Spring Summer 2012, ‘Dark Surfing’ was the inspiration behind Adam Kimmel’s first catwalk show.

Eschewing the standard view of LA surf style; the hawaiian shirt, loose-fit bottoms and a sun bleached demeanour, the collection retained a toughness through its boxy shapes, deep indigo shades and utilitarian fabric choices.

The shirt pictured is plain woven, short-sleeved and has a traditional island-scene repeat, distorted to the point of camouflage.  However, it’s the attached collar that makes this a much more interesting item.

Walter Van Beirendonck AW12/13

Image taken from Style.com, definitely click for the full collection

Lust Never Sleeps. A fitting title for this, a sinister reflection of life’s sleazy underbelly. Trademark fetish elements; rubber, masks, padlock ‘n’ chain and re-appropriated workwear items were incorporated with classic Van Beirendonck devices of colour, print play and proportion.

The effect of pale pink rubber gloves (complete with realistic hands) worn in conjunction with masks that contrasted with the models skin and the playful nature of Van Beirendonck’s work creates an unsettling visual impact.

That said, the majority of looks have more real-world appeal than in previous collections. Neat fitting checkered suits and shirts with circular over-print are different enough without warranting an intervention.

Marni AW12/13

Images taken from Fucking Young, do click to see the full collection

A flawless autumn/winter collection from Marni showcasing the classic house style.

Clean and crisp edges on necklines and closures update traditional overcoats. Small details on trousers such as quilt-like denim, odd seam placements and pocket repetition make each piece uniquely interesting.

The use of fur on coats, gilets, cardigans and scarves is a glamourous touch, and aligns Marni with Ferragamo, Prada and Moncler (amongst others) who also showed fur this year.

The understated range of bags appeared bright and minimal as slimline colour-blocked totes, complete with furry fob, drew attention away from the clothes. Marni footwear often tows the line between classic and corrective but this season’s brogues will certainly stand the test of time.